The Hard Truth About Storing Fuel

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We all have read the stories from our favorite post-apocalyptic authors where our hero has stored a huge amount of fuel for his or her vehicles in a facility. To keep warm in the winter, scout in the 4×4, looking for marauders, fueling the generator while a snowstorm outside roars without mercy. 

Very romantic. As much as we can enjoy this idea, reality is way different these days. Truth is hard, as most of them are: we can´t store enough fuel for as long as we would like to

The reality of storing fuel

No matter if it is diesel or gasoline or some sort of gasified product coming from an industrial facility. It´s economically very hard to do, and those who want to go down that path will find themselves at the end of the day with a huge empty tank they invested a fortune on. A quick calculation will show this to anyone. Sure, some people with the best of intentions will comment below their experiences using four or five years old fuel in some far away Alaskan forest to refill the snow motorcycle and run away from a furious gang of bears in the last second. But it´s something different to the scope of this writing. 

Fellows, using fuel too old without proper storage conditions will have a devastating effect on any engine in the medium term. If your heating system relies on one of these engines, THEN you´ll be in trouble when it decides to fail at the worst possible moment. 

But we already should know it won´t last for too long if a real disaster stops production everywhere. A couple of years, maybe? If you’re planning for this short term and believe that some sort of fuel will be available afterward, it’s your call if you still need to store it.

Just be aware of what happens when you are surrounded by people and have something valuable. I wrote of it here: Venezuela: Thieves, Fuel Shortages, Hunger, and the Black Market 

After two years, most of the fuel will have gone rancid if it wasn’t stabilized, will be consumed or won´t exist if the catastrophic event that led to the production stopping was large enough.

Politics could play a part in this, too.

Unless someone owns a refinery and wells, production pipes and the money to pay for the specialized professionals to operate it for the next 50 or 60 years, and train the next generation of refinery workers, fuel and other derivatives for internal combustion engines, or ICEs, could become a rarity. Politicians are already, with or without reasonable motifs, working actively in the forbidding of manufacturing new ICEs in Europe. Mind you, if someone 30 years ago someone would have told you, “Cable TV is no longer going to exist” you would have laughed in his face. I see the cable TV companies around here mutating. They´ve all switched to Internet access via optics fiber service. 

My take is that the car manufacturers are going to force the market to do as they please. This means the Western world bending and obeying the immensely powerful Asian elites in their pursuit to keep getting affordable products and keep the lifestyle of the masses that vote. Don´t underestimate the indoctrinating atmosphere the new generations are immersed in these days. Those who never identified the bond between the freedom and the roar of an 80 cu. in. Evo V-Twin or a small block Chevy V8 are lost forever. 

Take this as you prefer, as I´m not a market researcher or a specialist. However, common sense makes me think this is what they want, and they don´t care what we the customer base want or need. 

No matter how hard we try, it´s a matter of the world economy and the changes in the geopolitical environment, at a global level. Don´t get the wrong idea: it´s all about societal control. They need to push the concept of the “15-minute city“. 

I will elaborate a little bit about this: the power struggle of the bigger Western economies and the rest of the world (mostly the Asian part of the world) is based on technology and energy source control. Whoever controls these, rules the world, broadly speaking. Period. 

Or at least the parts of the world that matter. 

Fuel has become hard to acquire where I live.

Based on my own experiences with modern gasoline not produced in my country (which once produced 1/3 of the fuel tank of every car up there in the US), let´s elaborate on why storing “for the future” may not be an option anymore.

The actual formulation of the gasoline is now different to withstand the technology changes with the fuel injection systems. The fuels have evolved a little bit too. Detergent proportions, volatile components, everything works against the long-term storage philosophy. That´s why the unrefined, crude ingredient of the gasoline known as naphtha is the more stable way to store it, before mixing. This is the primary component and the base from which every company produces their fuel. But this is not available to the public, as far as I know, and it will destroy any engine in short if used crudely. I saw this happening in Venezuela.

Sadly, modern gasoline is not intended to be stored for a long time. Can you store it safely? Sure. Let´s see.

How long does modern gasoline last when stored in a home or farm?

The shelf life of gasoline depends on many factors, including the type of gasoline, the storage conditions, and the additives that are used. In general, gasoline should last for about 3 months up to 2 years (stabilized) when stored in a cool, dark place. If the gasoline is stored in a warm, humid place, it will last for a shorter period.

The following factors shorten the shelf life of gasoline:

  • Light: Exposure to light (mostly from the sun) can cause gasoline to oxidize and form harmful compounds.
  • Heat: Heat can cause gasoline to evaporate and lose its volatile components.
  • Moisture: Moisture can cause gasoline to corrode metal tanks and pipes.
  • Additives: Some additives can break down over time, which can shorten the shelf life of gasoline. Some additives like detergents or anti-foaming agents can precipitate, too, and cause more problems in the filters.

You have to be really cognizant of these things when storing fuel.

What causes the gasoline to go bad?

A good number of factors, indeed, including:

Oxidation – Gasoline, as a highly flammable liquid is easily oxidized (combined with Oxygen). Oxidation occurs when gasoline is exposed to oxygen, light, and heat as these conditions improve the speed of the reaction. Oxidation causes gasoline to form harmful compounds, such as gum and varnish. These undesired byproducts clog fuel filters, carburettors tiny parts and injectors and cause engine problems.

Evaporation – Gasoline is a volatile liquid that evaporates quickly. In evaporation, the gasoline loses its volatile components, such as octane. This reduces the performance of the engine.

Contamination: Gasoline can be contaminated by water, dirt, and other foreign materials. Water can get into a poorly stored tank. I’ve seen it. Even rain leaks fall over fuel tanks in generator sheds. No Bueno. Contamination causes the gasoline to become unstable and definitely can lead to engine problems.

Modern gasoline is more corrosive than gasoline from 20 years ago.

Gasoline, as a complex mixture of hydrocarbons, additives, and other compounds, will eventually degrade and become unusable. It has been designed to be consumed shortly after leaving the production facilities, indeed. It was never intended to be stored.

20 years ago, our gasoline was typically a blend of straight-chain hydrocarbons. This liquid had an octane rating of 87 or higher. Straight-chain hydrocarbons are less corrosive than branched-chain hydrocarbons, which are more commonly found in modern gasoline.

These so-called branched-chain hydrocarbons, such as iso-octane, are used to improve octane. They are meant to elevate the energy you get out of the liquid during the explosion of the mixture inside the engine. Branched-chain hydrocarbons are more corrosive than straight-chain hydrocarbons because they are more likely to react with water and form acids.

These acids will corrode metals, as they are supposed to do. In addition to branched-chain hydrocarbons, modern gasoline also contains ethanol, which is a type of alcohol as we know. Ethanol is corrosive to metal, and of course, it increases the aggressive behaviour of gasoline regarding corrosion.

This increased corrosivity factor of modern gasoline can lead to several problems, including:

  • Corrosion of fuel tanks and lines: Corrosion can weaken fuel tanks and lines, making them more likely to leak. Considering the newest alloys are thinner, to make cars lighter, this is an important fact.
  • Clogging of fuel filters and injectors: Corrosion can cause deposits to form on fuel filters and injectors, which can reduce engine performance and efficiency.
  • Engine damage: Corrosion can damage engine components, such as pistons, rings, and valves.

There is not so much that we can do to overcome this new conditions of the modern fuel.

The best conditions possible for storing fuel

To help prevent corrosion caused by modern gasoline, it is important to store gasoline properly. Gasoline should be stored in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight and heat. Gasoline should also be stored in a metal tank or container that is properly sealed to prevent evaporation and contamination.

Some users have reported using marine-grade stabilizers, and it seems a logical choice. You need the best products available to protect this sort of investment, especially thinking about the potential damage it can produce if (or when) it degrades.

Tips for storing gasoline are plentiful, and all of them are based on common sense. Still, in Venezuela, many accidental fires have been initiated because of people storing it inadequately. This being said, here is a disclaimer: Proceed under your responsibility when storing any kind of fuel.

  • Store the gasoline in a metal tank or container. Metal is a better conductor of heat than plastic, so it will help to keep the gasoline cooler. In my tropical country, I’d rather go with plastic and protect it from the sun than metal: a cement surface will be enough to corrode the sheet of the can from outside in. I’ve even seen some cans with the bottom adhered to the floor with rust and ripping off when lifted, so this choice is open to discussion based on experience.
  • Properly seal the gasoline tank or container. This will help to prevent evaporation and contamination.
  • This is important: fill the gasoline tank to 95% to allow for expansion. Gasoline is a volatile liquid and will go into a vapour-liquid equilibrium with the gas phase, too, and this small volume helps with that. If the recipient is airtight and vapours don´t escape, this volume is over the explosion limit as there is no Oxygen in it.
  • Label the gasoline tank or container with the date that it was stored. This will help you to track the age of the gasoline. This is a good practice that everyone should manage and not limit to fuels, no matter if he or she is new to prepping and self-reliance.
  • Keeping it as far away from any electrical outlet is compulsory
  • Should we store gasoline?

How much? Storing fuel depends on your situation.

Your needs are known only to you. Given the current state of things at a global scale, I would say that yes, store it. As much as we can afford, and do it safely within all the regulations.

With the actual shelf life, maybe storing more than one year of your actual consumption for each type of fuel is not worth it. Maybe with diesel, as it lasts longer, and we can always resource to WVO, Biodiesel, BioGas, or wood gasification, which I strongly recommend for those with space and regulations flexible enough. 

A generator needs about 60 gallons of gasoline for 30 days if used sparely. I want to emphasize here that alternative technologies like solar or wind are a must if you want to make your fuel supply last.

After all that has been said, not everything is lost. There are always alternatives to use your ICEs without having to refill at the local fuel station. For those with enough firewood, it would be a waste not to attach a wood gasifier to their gensets.

Stay tuned and join me at Patreon, follow my YouTube Channel, and you will see how it is possible.

Be safe!


What about you?

Have you had good luck storing fuel? What is your best advice to others who want to do so? Have you ever had fuel go bad? Did it cause damage or did you catch it beforehand?

Let’s discuss storing fuel in the comments section.

About Jose

Jose is an upper middle class professional. He is a former worker of the oil state company with a Bachelor’s degree from one of the best national Universities. He has an old but in good shape SUV, a good 150 square meters house in a nice neighborhood, in a small but (formerly) prosperous city with two middle size malls. Jose is a prepper and shares his eyewitness accounts and survival stories from the collapse of his beloved Venezuela. Jose and his younger kid are currently back in Venezuela, after the intention of setting up a new life in another country didn’t  go well. The SARSCOV2 re-shaped the labor market and South American economy so he decided to give it a try to homestead in the mountains, and make a living as best as possible. But this time in his own land, and surrounded by family, friends and acquaintances, with all the gear and equipment collected, as the initial plan was.

 Follow Jose on YouTube and gain access to his exclusive content on PatreonDonations:

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Daisy Luther

Daisy Luther is a coffee-swigging, globe-trotting blogger. She is the founder and publisher of three websites.  1) The Organic Prepper, which is about current events, preparedness, self-reliance, and the pursuit of liberty on her website, 2)  The Frugalite, a website with thrifty tips and solutions to help people get a handle on their personal finances without feeling deprived, and 3), an aggregate site where you can find links to all the most important news for those who wish to be prepared. She is widely republished across alternative media and  Daisy is the best-selling author of 5 traditionally published books and runs a small digital publishing company with PDF guides, printables, and courses. You can find her on FacebookPinterest, Gab, MeWe, Parler, Instagram, and Twitter.

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  • I have stored some gasoline in plastic containers for many years. I usually use it by the time it is two years old. My lawn mower and my generator engines are not the high tech engines mentioned in the article. I haven’t had any problems with them yet. The lawn mower is 22 hp and I have mowed several acres of yard with it for over 5 years. The generator is seldom used. 20 years ago I started making charcoal in a home made oven. I had 5 drums of it stored and my shed caught on fire. All the aluminum engines and ladders etc. melted. I started making charcoal again a couple of years ago. I am more careful about storing it. Charcoal never goes bad but it is easy to light when dry. The charcoal in the store is compressed and mixed with sand so it doesn’t light easy. The fire department said it was fire ants that started the fire. They like to build their nests in electrical boxes and keep their eggs damp so it can short out and start a fire. Fire ants are a relentless enemy. Watch out for them.

    • Dear David Homer,
      A very interesting experience to learn from. You´re right and they´re not the only wildlife I know that has originated an electric fire. I have seen frogs, snakes and other reptiles short-circuiting breaker boxes. My dad is an electrician and I used to go with him all the time to the countryside as most of his clients are farmers or tobacco producers.
      My suggestion would be to store separated and smaller amounts to avoid everything getting lost in case of a fire, and install remote temperature sensors wherever you have your flammable materials.
      Stay safe, and keep tuned!

  • We get to the point there is shooting in the streets, the Wally-World has been looted and burned down, park the cars, drain the tanks, add a fuel preservative and save it for the chain saws.

    Interesting this topic has been brought up at this time.
    Last week the International Energy Agency (IEA) released a report that peak oil would be reached globally by 2030. Now, some say we already reached conventional (the easy to get to stuff at an affordable price) peak oil but the shale “miracle” pushed it to the right by up to a decade or more.
    What I do find interesting is the timing of the report with all the push to go “green.” Looks more like the geo-political landscape is changing away from the US/West uni-polar world to a multi-polar one with energy security no long a US/West guarantee as the BRICS+ pivot way from the West to Asia and the Southern Hemisphere or what Biden recently called, “Third world countries.”
    Left with a questionable energy security, they are pushing for the “green” deal without thinking it through. Like putting the cart before the horse.
    What that means is energy insecurity, an even more fragile electrical grid and higher energy prices.
    It is funny that while the government is pushing for top down, central government mandated energy policy, economist Charles H. Smith has noted in the past that in such an energy insecure society, it will be decentralization of government and local society that will be the most viable society.

  • I read in
    In Vladivostok, the Russian Far East Rises
    In Vladivostok this week, the ‘Russian Far East’ was on full, glorious display. Russia, China, India, and the Global South were all there to contribute to this trade, investment, infrastructure, transportation, and institutional renaissance.
    By Pepe Escobar
    that government folks talking about decentralisation were all about them imposing on residents over which they rule top down solutions to problems within their real estate.

    When talking about the government, remember that all government folks plan top down mandated policy, regardless of the nominal governmental framework or structure.

    I don’t see decentralisation as a probability, even though it could be a possibility.

  • Hey David, Have you ever used grits to kill your fire ants? I have read that making a circle of uncooked grits around a nest will kill the nest very quickly. Also, how are you making your charcoal? That would be an interesting article to contribute to the OP! I have long wanted to make my own, and I have seen it done primitively, but would love to see how you do this with your oven.

    • Someone told me that Aspartame (artificial sweetener) when spread across ant trails will kill them. Apparently they take it back to the ant colony to eat and it’s not good for them.

    • The easiest way and the least efficient is it take red hot coals, and drop them in water.

      If you only want a little bit, take a one gallon metal paint can and punch a hole in the lid with a nail.
      fill it with wood secure the lid and set it in a small fire. when the smoke and flames stop coming out of the hole, drop a nail in it set aside and let it cool.

      For a metal food can turn it upside down and press the top in the dirt about an inch or less and build a fire around it. You’ll see smoke in flames coming out of the can and coming up out of the dirt when that stops drag the fire back and let it go out when it’s fully cooled turn the can over and see how you did.

      More efficient to use 5 gallon metal can or a 30 gallon oil or grease drum in a burn barrel.

      If you’re careful with straight twigs, you can make some really nice charcoal pencils for art work

  • Fact is, in a long term disaster situation, we’re ALL going to run out of fuel, and will ALL need to adapt. Having fuel on hand will increase the time we have to adapt; nothing more…

    I sold someone a generator with a full plastic gas tank. That person moved and sold it back to me after about a year and a half. The fuel wasn’t stabilized. The generator hadn’t been started since I sold it. I figured I was going to be dealing with five gallons of bad fuel and a toasted carburetor. Luckily, I had shut off the fuel and run the genny dry before I sold it, and the buyer never opened the valve. The carb was good. I opened the tank and the gas actually smelled pretty good. …Bad gas SMELLS bad… I opened the valve, set the choke, and… the genny started on the FIRST PULL! This, after SITTING A YEAR AND A HALF! There are a lot of instances where I’m not a big fan of plastic. Gas cans are not one of them. They don’t rust. They don’t dent. Most importantly, they don’t SWEAT. I’m referring to the moisture in the air inside the tank condensing on the wall of the tank and becoming part of the liquid in there. Metal tanks will do this. Plastic ones won’t. This genny had a plastic tank.

    That being said, I do have two metal 55-gallon drums full of fuel in the breezeway of my barn. They were originally filled with racing fuel. I keep the drums sitting on cinder blocks to keep them off the ground. They’re also strapped to the wall to keep them from falling over… earthquake country and all… One is full of gas and the other is full of diesel. I draw from those for the various engines here at Rancho Whybother, and refill them when they are “down” a couple of inches. I’ve been doing this for nine years, and the fuels are still quite viable. If you’re using metal cans, store them off the ground so that air can get under them. Keep them as full as you can without them pushing fuel out the spout on hot days. The less metal exposed to the air, the less sweating will happen. Keep ALL gas cans out of the sun and rain. I keep enough empty 5-gallon gas cans stored for two reasons. If I have to beat feet, I can empty the fuel I need from the drums and go. If one of the drums begins to leak, I can transfer the contents into the cans. NO metal fuel container lasts forever…

    With ANY gas can, when it’s empty and is going to be stored, let it vent for a couple of days. An EMPTY gas can or one with only a little gas in it is WAY more explosive than a FULL gas can! A full gas can is RICH on fuel but POOR on oxygen. An empty gas can has PLENTY of vapors and PLENTY of oxygen! BOOM! I vent mine by taking the filler off and placing the can upside down in a planter or bucket or something. This will allow the can to dry and allow the vapors, which are heavier than air, to “pour” out. It also gets rid of any water or other contaminants laying in the bottom of the can. Once it’s dry, it’s safe to store. If I see any dirt in the can after airing it out, I blast some compressed air into the can. That gets rid of it. If you use one of those “Eagle” or “Justrite” gas cans with the spring loaded lids, open the lid and stick something in the spout to keep it open before venting it. I use a piece of PVC pipe. …No sparks, as could happen if using a screwdriver or other metal item could cause…. Also, no contamination of the can as something like a stick would introduce…

  • Okay, let me ask the stupid questions. What about diesel? Is it a safer strategy to think of diesel as a more acceptable way to plan for the future? There are good, used Mercedes wagons out in the resale world that are diesel engines. What about red dye diesel? I know the government puts in a dye so that folks now cannot use it for fuel for travel; it is only for farm vehicles. But if we are talking, SHTF, then I may not be worried about whether the government approves of my red dye diesel.

    • Right you are….and red diesel dye can be filterd out….Mercedes is the best choice…always diesel available somewhere to buy, barter or borrow….or vegatable oil…take the older Mercedes type engines, if sound and well cared for will last a lifetime…what you spend more on fuel you save on costs…

    • Diesel is MUCH safer than gasoline to store, and stores MUCH longer. It has a much higher flashpoint and evaporates and degrades MUCH slower. Diesel also produces twice as much energy for every dollar than gasoline. That’s why MOST OF THE WORLD runs on it! In a pinch, a diesel engine can run on vegetable oil and even motor oil. Indeed, the diesel engine was originally designed to run on PEANUT OIL.

      Farm diesel is taxed at a lower rate than what you by at the gas station. “The Man” put the red dye in the farm diesel so that if he wants to inspect the fuel at a gas station they can tell if the station owner tried to sneak farm diesel into the station’s tanks so he could pocket the tax difference. That is the ONLY reason it’s there, and it DOESN’T affect the fuel at all! Once the fuel is in your storage tanks “The Man” has NO WAY of knowing how you got it.

      I’m a big fan of diesel. Diesel engines have A LOT of torque. They also tend to last FOREVER; a side benefit of running an engine on a LUBRICANT! Both my pickup and my tractor run on the stuff. I wouldn’t have it any other way…

      I’m with Duchesne. The older Mercedes are the gold standard when it comes to reliability and longevity! Volvos back then were good as well. By “older” I’m talking somewhere back in the 70’s-80’s. They made both turbo and non-turbo versions of their cars. If you’re going to be using it as your daily driver and you’re on the freeway a lot, you might want the turbodiesel. If you’re just running it around town, I’d go non-turbo, for the simple reason of it being a simpler engine setup… Less parts to break… and turbos break…

  • Reading the article was interesting, and yes, modern fuel is made to deteriorate, just like new ammo. I drive a 1982 2.0 petrol engine on LPG/ GPL in a oldtimer van now for 12 years, no drop of petrol used in that time. I miss out on a bit of power, but the engine starts in any weather type. It is basic and simple. I clean and replace filters in time, makes a all the difference. What i am looking for is a way to pump Liquid gas to my car from a random tank and maybe make it liquified from a state of gas to liquid. Liquid gas is everywhere here, farms all have big tanks and also the pig shit makes biogas… My plan B is to go for an old Mercedes diesel engine to swap, which will run on anything oily. I have a single cilinder KTM motorcycle, bad fuel means i have to switch to a different mode in the CDI unit. The best engine would be in my opinion a upgraded 1930/1960 side valve single engine with seperate gearbox as it wille run on shit and most all repairs are roadside…and the stuff you can use to repair….i used to have a 45 sidevalve Harley but things change…still a thick gasket under the cilinder base would make less compression and bad fuel / low octane can be used. A carburator for a motorcycle can be cleaned easy if on a single cilinder engine or on the outside….the first carburator was a tube with a bowl where fuel would pour in….LPG/GPL is basically the same, pour in and regulate the amount…..acetone or nail polish remover can boost petrol if added to bad quality broth, someone would know how much and when….condensator added to the battery is also a plus item as it can bypass the battery on a kick start engine or a small bump start thing with wheels.., batteries are shit nowadays, some do not even work when out of the box….i can remember when old motorcycle batteries got a new life by draining them, then flushing them with demineralised water and refill with acid mixture…recharge…go…it worked on most batteries if they were not run dry and plates folded or bent….batteries may just become more rare than fuel….

    Fuel will always be there for government organisations, so a small pump or a hose is handy in case some government vehicle has a leak, always a helping hand……..

    Plastic jerrycans have my sympathy, the air in the metal ones condensates when not completly full, steel barrels are even worse….also small portions are more managable if you have to move….i store enough to make for the hills and back and then some in a hole in the ground with stone walls outside in a corner of the garden where the sun never comes….cover over the hole…some sand over the top…it is the best place for where and how i live…underground is always more temperature stable….also, i buy the expensive fuel without the plant additive….last longer….no green muck buildup….

    ….good luck in a world that could have been great but is made to be a shit place for the benefit of some IDIOTS…and those IDIOTS are not in control anymore over their own creation of “economy”…idiots with power running scared of their Frankenstein economy……..why do they call them “Elite” ???

    regards from the Netherlands….WEF garden of corrupt politicians and their handbag carrying idiots.

    • Dear Duchesne,
      Noticed a lot of similarities in the ways you think and myself. Netherlanders rule. LOL. My grampa was an expat from Der Hagen.
      I always keep wondering how Venezuela would be now, if colonized by the Netherlands instead of the Spaniards.
      Great to know you’re around here.

      • Thank you Jose….for the record, my heart bleeds for what the people in Venuzuela get from their government….in the early eighties i was in the military and one room mate came from the Dutch island of Aruba. He had just finished university in Venuzuela and said it was a beautiful place…most good looking women in the world he said…always wondered….economics should be a matter of the people, not state nor bankers and stockmarket gamblers controlled…
        By the way, my granddad came from the Den Haag area also….went to the shipping school as a young boy of 14 in the early twenties in Scheveningen.

        i hope you and yours get by and wish you a better future ahead.
        regards, Duchesne.

  • After I’ve added fuel to a 5, 10 or 20 liter plastic fuel container, I use my knees to squeeze the sides in. That makes it easy (later) to see if any expansion has occurred. It also provides vacuum space to expand into, without creating pressure.

    • I do the exact same thing, and create a vacuum in the plastic container, and it’s much more safe due to much less air in the tank. I try to use it in 6 months and use Stabil, but have also used it after a year and it’s fine. Also look for a gas station that sells gas without ethanol, and it will store longer and have less water in it after long term storage. You can also add carb cleaner to your tank then add the stored gas if it’s a year old or a bit older. I also use stabil in my lawnmower and that helps keep the carb cleaner, and my lawnmower is over 35 years old and still starts on the first pull. Also, good to store the gas and extra propane in a locked shed with venting away from other structures like barns and houses. Cheers!

  • Prior to Covid, my local Rural King had 5 gal plastic gas cans at a really good pricce. I bought 10 and filled them with gas and fuel stabilizer and put them in an outbuilding on a wooden bench. I put a tag with the date on the last can in line, so I’d know when I had reached 1 year. Each time a can was emptied, it was refilled with gas and stabilizer. When I ran into that last can, I added fuel cans to the queue until I reached one year from the start date. No problems with old fuel, and if/when SHTF, I’ll know that I have at least one year’s worth of fuel.

    I keep the farm diesel above 50% and add diesel stabilizer once a year and at each topping off. Since I don’t bale hay anymore, I have well over 2 years of diesel on hand, and a tractor with no electronic parts except for an alternator.

    • RayK,
      good plan, i as well plan on depending on my older tractors for SHTF. mechanical fuel systems,- all you have to do is spin the motor and they will run, park em on a good hill : )
      diesel lasts a long time in storage and the older equipment will burn most anything.
      best of luck

  • store non ethanol fuel for long term.10 % ethanol fuel will degrade fast and destroy your equipment. i have learned this the hard way.

    • Dear Scout,
      Exactly. That was one of the objectives of the article. I have stored fuel since 2017 and I dared only to use it for degreasing some part of my motorcycle.

  • I keep about 80 gallons of gas and diesel on hand. Enough to fill up my truck, cars, and bike. I rotate diesel at 1 year or sooner. I use Sta-Bil and rotate the gas at 1 year. Non treated gasoline gets used at 6 months or sooner. Sta-Bil works great. Recently purchased PRI-D Diesel and PRI-G Gas. Its an additive worth looking into. Haven’t tried it yet, but its supposed to bring old horrible fuel back to life.

  • Pri-G for gas. Pricey but worth every penny.
    Outback in Colorado, stored gas for seven years using Pri-G.
    Stored cool and dry out of the sun.
    Used 1 ounce per 5 gallon metal container each and every year. Probably an overkill, but kept my gas like new.
    Used that gas to travel to the East Coast, was just like it was pumped it yesterday, not a hitch, dodge ram 1500 ran perfect.
    No engine problem then or after.

  • Check this out guys. It´s in Spanish, but nothing a good integrated translator can´t fix:

    This article was in the publication queue on Sept. 20 as I had submitted it. See the date?
    The most important oil company in China says “The internal combusting engine and the fossil fuels are doomed”…and then, being an OIL COMPANY are betting on electric cars.
    The reader should know already where the majority of lithium mines and the largest processing plants are…
    It´s about undermining the Western financial stability and moving the equilibrium point. That´s the reason the oil industry of my country, my career and therefore my future were destroyed.

  • Been storing 500 gallons of gasoline in a metal tank elevated on metal legs with a hose & nozzle to fill our vehicles for 15 years. Gravity does the rest. It’s cheaper to buy bulk and it’s needed for our business. Never really needed stabilizer since it’s used up less than 3 months. The tank is away from buildings, but it sits in the Texas sun. Always wanted to cover it until a Hurricane caused all the covered fuel tanks to explode.

    • Dear Sophie,
      I´m not sure why the covered fuel tanks exploded. Maybe the type of cover. However, I would suggest researching the best paint for that structure, as well systems like the one by SERTEC SRL (not related to me by any means) which will work to conduct the ions in the air to the ground, and thus avoid the high density in the adjacent air, needed to produce the discharge or lightning.

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